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Nattypat Crochet specializes in crochet patterns of amigurumi that are quick to make, realistically shaped, and lovingly designed to mimic nature’s cutest critters.

How to Crochet a Perfect Circle

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How to Crochet a Perfect Circle

Nattypat Crochet

Creating a perfect circle in single crochet seems to mystify a lot of people. But it really shouldn’t. Crocheting a flat circle of any size can be done with the help of a very simple and predictable formula.—Note how I avoided using the word math. Yes, it is math, but that doesn’t mean it should scare you.—So for those of you who like having these sorts of things in writing here’s the formula for a single crochet flat circle:


You may choose to join rnds or work in a continuous spiral as it makes no difference to the formula. Make an adjustable ring (magic loop) and work Rnd 1 into it. Or Ch 2 and work Rnd 1 into the 2nd ch from hook.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring. —6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 sc into each st around —12 sts
Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around —18 sts
Rnd 4: (Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around —24 sts
Rnd 5: (Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) around —30 sts
Rnd 6: (Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) around —36 sts


Let’s analyse this formula…

With every round completed, you are adding a total of 6 additional stitches. This also happens to be the number of stitches you had in rnd 1—meaning that your increase multiple is 6 in each round.

There is also a highly predictable pattern to the stitches in each rnd. In Rnd 1 there are no increases (2 sc in next st), Rnd 2 is only increases, Rnd 3 has one before the increase, Rnd 4 has two before the increase, Rnd 5 has three before the increase, and Rnd 6 has four before the increase. As you can see, each rnd has an extra none-increase stitch added before the increase. Simple!

If words aren’t your thing, then take a look at my video tutorial showing how to crochet this perfect single crochet circle.

Hope that helps!

♥ Natalie of Nattypat Crochet


Comments & Questions from the Nattypat Community

Hi everyone. My mother and grandmother had a very easy way to remember this and it was that all odd rows started with started with one sc and all even rows with two sc together in one stitch. You simply followed the pattern after that and nothing ever lined up except in the join area.
— Pallie Spadafino

Nattypat Crochet: Yes this is an alternate method which many people also like as it distributes the stitches around the circle evenly without having them always occurring at the same location. Thanks for commenting!

I am a beginner, I need to know exact directions for crocheting a beginner circle, not just increase every row or etc, your first 6 rows are perfect and then I get lost. Thank you.
— Patsy Pittman

Nattypat Crochet: Hi Patsy! It’s a predictable pattern for increasing stitches to create the circle. With each round, you simply need to add more additional stitch before you complete the actual increase.

I noticed this the first time I ever made one, the mathematically pattern as explained above. However, mine do not lay flat. I have gone up in needle size, as I am a tight crocheter, to the point there are gaps that I do not want between the stitches, yet the circle still curls. I can not make a simple coaster because of it. I seem to be breaking a law of physics.
— Darcy

Nattypat Crochet: Hi Darcy! For those who work tight, sometimes it’s advisable to use a larger hook to try to compensate and have the stitches turn out looser, thereby avoiding the curling. However, if you follow the same basic increasing pattern in indicated but start with an extra number of stitches, this may work best in your case. Just start with any number of stitches in the first round to have it lay flat (this should be more than what was indicated). Let me know how that goes!

Another way to make it less hexagonal is to move the increase stitch so it is not directly above the previous row’s increase.
Example instead of:
Rnd 4: (Sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st) around —24 sts
use
(Sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next st) around
or to just randomise it a bit. There should always be 6 increases in each row so just make sure you get all 6 in but not in straight lines.

What I’m wondering is if it is the same formula for HDC or DC etc? Because if the stitches are taller I would think you would need a bit more increase – is that correct?
— FannyAdams

Nattypat Crochet: Sorry for the very late reply! Look’s like your post snuck away from me. You are correct, when you work with taller stitches you do need to work a little differently. In general, as the stitches get taller, the more stitches you need to have in your beginning round. You still use the same increase pattern, but you need to start with more in the beginning to allow the work to lay flat.

OH MY GOD. F-I-N-A-L-L-Y AN EXPLANATION!! Of why I sometimes achieve a flat one and sometimes a beanie!! So grateful for [the above] comment.
— Mary

Nattypat Crochet: Glad it helps Mary :). May there be no more unintentional beanies in your world!

Hello, I do understand how to make a circle. and I do get it perfectly right. But I am trying to crochet a round trivet with very thick cotton. And it does not work! It is lifting up and not lying flat. Do you maybe have a different pattern for thick cotton?
Hope you can help?
— Lindie

Nattypat Crochet: Hi Lindie. It may be that you are working either 1) too tightly, 2) using the a hook that is too small, or 3) both. If you are working with a tall stitch, such as a double crochet or a treble (triple) crochet, you also need to add more initial stitches to your first round to allow it to lay flat. For a double crochet circle, you should have 16 double crochet stitches in the first round.

I do my circles the same way, however, I’m trying to perfect a perfectly round circle, not a hexagonal circle, kwim? Have you been able to make a perfectly round circlet yet? Looking for ideas!
— N.

Nattypat Crochet: Yes, I know what you mean. Most circles have an increase of 6 stitches each round. This means that the completed circle has 6 corners, making it a subtle hexagon (it’s not a full hexagon because you don’t add extra stitches to create the corner as you would in a granny hexagon for example). I’ve found that the best way to minimize the subtle hexagon is to add a final border of single crochet (sc) around the circle. Work one sc into each stitch around. To be fancy, you could also do a reverse sc (crab stitch) around. Ultimately crochet is based in math and consistent increases so the subtle hexagon will always be there.

I know this is an old post, but maybe someone will stop by with the same question. Another way to avoid the hexagonal shape is to stagger the increases. That is, instead of following the pattern (above) that says:
Rnd 4: (Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around —24 sts
Rnd 5: (Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) around —30 sts
Rnd 6: (Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) around —36 sts

on even rounds, divide the first “run” of sc in half, and do half at the beginning and half at the end. so, for example, on round 6, at the beginning of the round, sc 2 instead of 4, complete the pattern around, and then do the “missing” sc 2 at the end of the round. This way, your increases don’t line up and your circle will be more circular! I hope that made sense!
— Kenzishly

Nattypat Crochet: That absolutely does work, good point! It’s never too late to write a good comment on a post :). Thanks!

♥ Natalie of Nattypat Crochet

 


 

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